WHY DRYER TECH
Dryer Safety Inspections
Price: $49.00* plus parts
Let me take a look at your dryer along with the venting to make sure it is working properly and that your home is safe. A multipoint inspection doesn’t take very long but I often am able to resolve issues that may save you money in the long run. *Price is for the safety inspection only, but will be applied to additional recommended services. Estimate given at time of service.
Dryer Vent Repair/Installations
Starting at $49.99* plus parts
Have an existing dryer vent not working properly or maybe it wasn’t installed per code requirements? Or do you need a new dryer vent installed where one wasn’t before. I can complete the process from design, to installation to inspection. *Price is for the vent inspection only, but will be applied to additional recommended services. Estimate given at time of service.
Dryer Vent Cleaning
Price: $99.00* plus parts
A clean dryer vent will reduce drying times which will reduce wear and tear on your clothes, your dryer and save you money in the process. Oh, and don’t forget, the most likely cause of a home fire is right there in your laundry room. Let me take care of the work and make sure you are safe in your home. *Price is labor only, parts, supplies, vents requiring roof or ladder access are additional. Estimate given at time of service.
Dryer Service & Repair
Price: $129.00* plus parts
Dryer not working? I can help. As a master appliance technician, I have the skills, the knowledge and the tools needed to ensure your dryer is repaired properly so you can get back to your life. I specialize in dryers just like yours so I know how to quickly identify and repair the issue. This saves you time and money. *Repair services are for labor only, any parts or supplies needed will be additional. Should you decide not to have the dryer repaired, I do ask for $49 to cover my travel and diagnostic expenses.
Need help with something else? Give me a call, I would love to help.
Model #MGDB400VQ0, this dryer from the Bravos series was recently purchased and installed along with an associated washer in the customers home. Both had been working without a hiccup, but the dryer suddenly stopped heating resulting in obviously damp clothes. The customer was upset their new purchase had failed in such short order, but it sometimes happens, and I assured them the problem would be solved quickly.
Gas dryers work a bit differently than their electric cousins, which should be obvious, but aside from the logical differences between the two designs, they both use very similar wiring and electrical components for the heating circuit. Yes an electric dryer uses 240 volts AC to power the element, but if you substitute the typical twin 120 volt AC circuits found in electric dryers for a single 120 volt circuit and a neutral, you can easily see the similarities.
When troubleshooting any dryer for not heating, it’s always best of confirm the failure and a good place to start is to look at the heat source. On Whirlpool made dryers, a small panel can usually be found toward the bottom of the front panel and is in place to allow a visual inspection of the burner assembly without even turning a screw. With the panel removed, I could see the burner and while the dryer was running, I began looking for signs of the igniter glowing. On most dryer burners, if the igniter is glowing, then we know voltage has made it’s way there. This would indicate the entire circuit works and now we are simply dealing with a problem localized to the burner. But if the igniter isn’t working, then either it has failed, or some part of the heater electrical circuit has failed.
There was no evidence of the igniter working on this dryer which means it’s time to remove the front panel to have a look. This dryer is put together much like the front load designs in that the front panel is not the supporting structure for the drum and can be removed with out taking the belt loose. Once removed, I located the connector to the gas burner and using my meter, checked for voltage. With the dryer running, I had no voltage at this point which is an indication of a failure of one of the safety or control components in the heater circuit. Now it’s just a matter of looking for voltage and finding out where it stops.
By working back from the burner to the control, I found the thermal cutoff which is mounted to the burner tube, next to the high limit thermostat, was open and the reason for no voltage to the burner. This component is one of the safety devices designed to open the circuit in the event of an over temperature condition. So when they fail, it is usually best to look for a reason they failed or it just might happen again.
The logical reason is a restriction of airflow from the dryer which creates quick temperature rises and will eventually open one of these components. The vent behind the dryer looked fine as there was not obvious restriction. In talking with the customer, I found they replaced their old dryer due to it no longer heating, which had me thinking this was no coincidence. A walk outside to the outlet of the vent found the louver completely blocked by branches from a nearby bush. With a little quick pruning, the louver again was open, and plenty of packed in lint came out with the freely moving airflow from the dryer. The reason for the failure had been found, now it was just time to get the dryer working again.
I installed a new thermal cut-off onto the burner tube and before putting the front panel back in place, started a drying cycle to get a better view of the burner. The igniter quickly began to glow indicating a good electrical circuit, and the flame came to life shortly there after as the gas valves opened. The customer was still disappointed at the quick failure, but understood it was the environment and not the dryer itself that was the problem. Their dryer was back ready to dry clothes again, just like I said.
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